Reloading Magtech Brass Shotshells 

Loading Magtech brass shotshells has been a job for the do-it-yourself kind of guys.  Lolo Sporting Goods has put together a kit of tools and components to make loading the Magtech brass a little easier.

There are several links on this page to get information on black powder and substitute loads for loading shot shells.  Here is specific loading instructions for loading the Magtech brass shot shells.

Step 1:  There are various methods and cleaners for cleaning your brass.  One of the most common practices is to put the brass in a mixture of window cleaner (without ammonia) and water after shooting. Then dry the brass and tumble with media to polish.  Every cowboy shooter has a special solution for cleaning his black powder brass, just ask one.

Step 2:   Magtech brass is primed with a large pistol primer.  The Lolo kit includes a de-priming punch and block.  The case is set in the de-priming block and the punch is used to knock out the spent primer.  A sizing die is available that has a de-capping pin.  The die needs to be used in a RCBS Rock Chucker press or equivalent press that is capable of use with 1 1/4 threads. Even though I have the sizing die, I find the punch much easier and faster to use.

Step 3:   The primer pocket should be cleaned to allow proper seating of the primer.  RCBS, Hornady, and Lee all make primer pocket cleaning tools.

Step 4:   This is where the loading would begin on new cases.  There are several methods for priming these cases.  What I would call the old method and the Lolo method.  Both work.  Slightly chamfering the primer pocket will help with starting the primer.  In the old method, the primer is started in the primer pocket by hand and then the case is placed on a hard flat surface.  A mandrel is inserted in the case and hammered onto the primer.  Although I do not like the thought of hammering a case onto a primer, this method has been used for more years than I am old.   The one tool in the Lolo kit that is worth it weight in gold is the shell holder.  With the shell holder, the brass shot shell can be primed in a single stage press that is equipped with priming capabilities such as the RCBS press shown in the picture to the right.  I prefer the Hornady hand priming tool. Note: Hornady has redesigned their hand priming tool. The new model will not accecpt the brass shot shell holders.

If you want something to show off at the range, nothing so far can beat the Pope Style priming, de-caping tool.  This case colored nostalgic tool is for the cowboy shooter that has everything and wants to show off something other than his new silk scarf.

Getting back to a budget, I have used the Lee Ram Prime.  It is simple, cheap, and it works.

Step 5:   Powder is generally dipped from a container and poured into the case.   The appropriate dipper size will be included the Lolo kit for the gauge being loaded to use American Pioneer Powder.  An optional dipper can be supplied for use with black powder or another substitute.

Step 6:   A nitro card is placed over the powder and seated with a ram rod or the use of the wad seating station on a single stage shot shell loader.   The nitro card and wad seater are included in the Lolo kit.

Step 7:  The cushion wad is used for 2 reasons.  First, it is used to cushion the shot from the fast acceleration from igniting the powder.  The second reason and more useful reason is to take up space in the case.  I use a plastic wad as used in a regular shot shell.  This will leave plastic in the barrel but it is easily cleaned and I believe the shot pattern will be better with the use of a shot cup.  Real black powder shooters will want to use a lubed cushion or felt wad to keep the fowling soft in the barrel.

Step 8:   The  shot is poured into the case in the same manner as the powder, typically with the use of a shot dipper.  An adjustable shot dipper is available with the Lolo kit.  The recommended amount of shot for a cowboy load is 1-1/8 ounce.

Step 9:   A card wad is glued over the shot to keep the shot in place.  I use the same nitro card over the shot as I do over the powder.  This gives more bearing surface to glue the card to the case wall.    I talked to Circle Fly Wads about the thick nitro card ruining the shot pattern.  This is the same wads they use for skeet shooting.

Step 10:   Crimping is optional.  With the use of the crimping die, the wad column is held in place and a nice rounded edge can be placed on the case.  This slight roll will help hold the overshot card and make loading the double barrel a little smoother.

Note:  There has been a lot of reported problems loading smokeless powder in the 12 gauge cases.  The powder is not igniting properly and wads are not leaving the barrel.  The problem has been determined of a lack of pressure to burn the powder properly.  Using a heavier shot load and crimping the cases has helped solved this problem.

The Lolo Brass Shot Shell Loading Kit was assembled to take the trouble out of loading the brass shells.  I have seen some pretty ingenues tools to load these shells.  Most were made by people that had a lot of time on there hands, a lathe, welder, and drill press.  The one tool I highly recommend is the shell holder.  The shell holder will allow you to safely prime your cases and be able to use the crimping and sizing dies if needed.


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